by Vladimir Vega 👾
◆ If you’re just starting out in game collecting, the absolute first skill you need to master is telling original cartridges apart from fake copies <aka bootlegs/repros>. A lot of newcomers have no idea how flooded the online market is with counterfeits. To ensure no one takes advantage of you and you don’t look like a rookie in front of fellow collectors, consider this guide your essential crash course.
◆ SEGA MEGA DRIVE ◆
Back in the 90s, Mega Drive bootlegs were traditionally imported from China, though Russia, Argentina, and Brazil also played massive roles in the piracy scene. What set the bootlegs of that era apart was the hardware, the PCBs were actually built to last. Because of this, many vintage bootlegs still run flawlessly today, a stark contrast to modern, cheap repros that tend to die quickly. These old school counterfeits are still heavily circulating, primarily in Europe and especially in regions where 90s copyright laws were virtually non-existent. But enough with the history lesson, let’s get straight to the guide.
1> When it comes to 90s repros, the first thing to pay attention to is the look of the cartridge and the screws. Usually, the plastic the cartridge is molded from is of very poor quality, and the shell almost always has a “cutout” on one side. Sometimes, these cartridges are very well-made, but a ’90s repro will almost always give itself away with fake, black plastic star screws instead of the metal ones typical of original releases. Also, authentic cartridges have a high-quality embossed SEGA logo on the back <Konami, Capcom, Acclaim, and EA titles feature their own logos>, while bootlegs either lack this entirely or have a poorly defined logo. For the record, the so-called “cutout” is a common feature on original Japanese carts, but their boxes and labels look completely different.
◆ BOOTLEGS◆
◆ ORIGINALS ◆
◆ JAPANESE GAMES ◆
2> The next thing to focus on is the label sticker. The labels on original carts are made from a specific type of paper with a finish that falls somewhere between matte and glossy. They are printed at a high DPI, making them quite difficult to reproduce accurately. Authentic labels are characterized by perfectly clear and sharp printing <though admittedly, some mid-’90s official releases suffered from poorer print quality>. You should also look for the Genesis or Mega Drive logo in the bottom corner, usually in a black or blue variant.
To be 100% sure it’s a genuine copy, your best bet is to search for images of a confirmed original on eBay and compare every single detail. Keep in mind that some high-end repros have surprisingly good labels that might even be slapped onto a genuine shell, which brings us to the ultimate test – PCB board.
Almost all official PCBs have the SEGA logo printed directly on the board as well as on the ROM chips, so if your PCB looks different, it’s almost certainly a repro.
◆ ORIGINAL PCBs ◆
◆ BOOTLEG PCBs ◆
If you’re buying an expensive game, always insist that the seller opens the cartridge so you can inspect the board. If they refuse with some excuse, consider it a massive red flag and walk away. It’s also worth noting that games with a save feature will have a small battery attached to the PCB, so keep an eye out for that. To open the cartridges yourself, you’ll need a 4.5mm Gamebit security screwdriver, which is also widely available as an interchangeable bit. You can grab these on AliExpress or Amazon for just a few bucks. As for modern bootlegs, they are much better made when it comes to labels and shells, but they still suffer from flaws that easily give them away. While some counterfeiters have practically perfected their craft, resulting in highly convincing copies, at the end of the day, always buy from trusted, reliable sources.
◆ SUPER NINTENDO ◆
When it comes to Super Nintendo reproductions, the same general rules apply as with the Mega Drive, with a few notable exceptions. To open SNES carts, you’ll need a smaller 3.8mm Gamebit screwdriver. On the outside, authentic SNES labels are typically printed with a distinct glossy finish. On the inside, just like with Sega, you should expect to see the official Nintendo logo silk-screened onto almost all genuine PCB boards.
◆ ORIGINAL CART ◆
◆ BOOTLEG ◆
One response to “TIPS & TRICKS : SEGA Originals | vs Bootlegs <ARCHIVE>”
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